A: Climber's finger is an injury to the 'digital pulley' and the 'proximal intra-pahalangeal joints'. This likely requires some explaining for those who speak English but not medicalese. In general, this injury involves damage to the structure which supports the tendons in the finger joints. In particular, the joint second from the finger tips (proximal intra-phalangeal joint or PIP), is often involved.

Usually this is a chronic process, resulting in constant low grade pain, which may persist for long periods of time. However, it is also possible for the injury to occur due to a single episode of stress on the hand tendons. This may be accompanied by a loud snap or giving way. Occasionally the force may be so great that the tendon ruptures.

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Q: Who is most likely to get climber's finger ? How can it be prevented ?

A: High level climbers, particularly competitive sport climbers, are most likely to get 'climber's finger'. Modern sport climbing often requires suspending ones entire weight on 1-2 finger joints. Thus, the extreme stress on the tendons can lead to injury.

One particular common hold, which requires bending back the joint closest to the finger tip (distal intra-phalangeal joint, DIP) while at the same time bending forcefully the PIP, is most likely to cause injury. The ring finger is the most likely to be involved.

Aside from avoiding this hold, taping of the extremities before pain develops may help to prevent injury. Taping of a 1.5cm wide zinc oxide tape around the proximal / middle phalynges, using at least 2 1/2 wraps, may help to protect the most commonly injured A2 pulley.

Q: How is Climbers Finger treated? Can I continue to climb with my finger's taped while the injury is healing?

A: Treatment of this injury is controversial, as different physicians differ on how aggressive treatment should be. In general, treatment will involve some or all of the following modalities: